AaronShirt LLC - Official Penn State Nittany Lions 2024 CFP Vrbo Fiesta Bowl Penn State Block Party T-Shirts

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Fashion was always a vehicle for expression for Vivienne, who died in December 2022, age 81. What began in the 1970s with spiked hair, “rubberwear for the office,” and T-shirt slogans so provocative that she and her partner, Malcolm McLaren, were prosecuted under the 1959 Obscene Publications Act later morphed with further humor, zest, and creativity. She wore silk dresses that parodied the upper classes, cosplaying as Margaret Thatcher for the cover of Tatler in 1989; spread her 70-year-old naked body resplendent on a silk sofa like Manet’s Olympia for Juergen Teller; spun for the cameras when picking up her OBE while “glamorously” wearing no underwear; and in 2020 dressed as a yellow canary hanging in a cage outside Downing Street to protest Julian Assange’s extradition to the US. “Vivienne started off a punk and ended as a dame, without compromising an inch,” said Helena Bonham Carter at her memorial today.

The question is: Why? Is it designers being realistic about what their customers are actually wearing every day? Is it confusion about what to wear post-Covid, mixing WFH basics with dress-to-impress styles? Is it us oxymoronically finding a new uniform in our rejection of existing ones? The fall 2023 runways saw an abundance of power-tailoring Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli created an entire collection around the black tie, tweaking the idea of formalwear. Anthony Vaccarello looked at Working Girl for his Saint Laurent fall lineup, which took the pinstripe out of the boardroom. As leading designers decontextualize these uniforms, we are bound to find the comfort of homogeneity elsewhere. Enter: athleisure.

But as the pandemic put the final nail on the coffin of blazers, ties, and pencil skirts (or slacks) as our only options for work attire, it created confusion as to what we are supposed to wear and where. It’s no wonder that folks are dressing in activewear to grab lunch or drinks on a weekend, to shop, or to simply exist outside. If our casualwear jeans, cargos, denim jackets, and simple button downs is now our work attire, what else would we wear to dress casually? Turns out Jonathan Anderson had the right idea when he sent heather-gray long-johns paired with a wrinkled shirt down his fall 2023 Loewe menswear runway in January. Gucci’s Prince of Wales suit double breasted jacket and biker shorts seems like a viable idea now.

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