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Grace Jones, who turns 75 today, has always possessed an inimitable aesthetic vision. Meticulously crafted and ever-evolving in collaboration with French creator and ex-paramour Jean-Paul Goude, the singer’s Afrofuturist image is as integral to her character as her sultry contralto and subversive stage presence. And while her Cubist fashion, from her razor-sharp-shouldered suits to her architectural dresses worn with directional headpieces by Philip Treacy, has always been a vital part of the visual equation, her signature, shape-shifting close crop and fantastical makeup have made her a beauty icon for the ages.
As it turns out, this Mexico City showing was right on time. “It’s been really intense eyes for the last few shows,” says Philips, who notes that Maria Grazia herself favors a more dramatic eye for her personal makeup. “I’ve been doing so many variations on the smokey eye, and for this show we thought, ‘Maybe let’s do something less extreme.’” The result brings us back to what we know: When it comes to beauty, less-is-more isn’t a clichéd adage but a strong choice. “It’s not about a red lip or a black eye or highlighting or contouring,” says Philips. “It’s about embracing or enhancing their natural beauty.”
Born in Spanish Town, Jamaica and raised in upstate New York, Jones was living in New York City and cultivating her image as an up-and-coming Wilhelmina model when she radically shaved off all her hair in the late ’60s. “It made me look more abstract, less tied to a specific race or sex or tribe,” she once said. “I was Black, but not Black; woman, but not woman; American, but Jamaican; African, but science fiction.” In 1970, she moved to Paris, where her unconventional look was met with applause, and so began her meteoric rise to fame. Modeling for Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo and posing for photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, Jones treated her buzzed coif like a sculpture, casting it in geometric shapes with elaborate etchings, with her flattop fade styles becoming the most notorious of all. And while her hair, as well as her lithe yet muscular figure, often skewed androgynous, her makeup played up her almond gaze, pyramid-sharp cheekbones, and pillowy mouth to super-goddess effect.
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